New Zealand Gold Prospecting & Metal Detecting Forums Archive

I'd like to start a thread for 'proper and safe' cleaning and preservation techniques for various metals, and any leather etc that may be associated with finds (such as wood handles on penknives).

I'd like to avoid the quick and dirty methods, such as the Tinfoil "trick" for silver. Tried that on my first silver thruppence and it stripped most of the detail off it! Lesson learned.

Each method would ideally have some validation with a link back to a reputable source, such as a museum or collectors page.

Also tips such as don't store metal A touching metal B are welcomed.

So, to kick off, here's what sowed the seed for this thread.

METALS (Primarily ferrous)
An excellent gentle, rust destroyer can be made from molasses, obtained from your local farm store, cheap and easy. About a cup of molasses to ten litres of water put in a plastic container with a good fitting lid - if your object is larger then you will have to find a bigger container and use more liquid. Warning: your neighbours pets will find the smell irresistable - unlike the neighbours themselves! Keep it covered and outside! Depending on the amount of rust it will take from a few weeks to a month or more to convert, when done you simply wash in clean water and leave to dry. The molasses creates a coating which will prevent further rusting and can be painted over with a good primer/paint system. It will not affect the original sound paint or other metals, and is quite good for cleaning up nickel and brass which has bad verdigris (greening) these include stirrups, bits, buckles etc.

LEATHER
For very grubby gear a careful wash with sunlight soap and lukewarm water is good. Avoid over soaking and excessive scrubbing as this will damage the leather surface.... Most saddle soaps contain glycerine which help preserve and soften leather. Glycerine also encourages mould growth and its use is to be avoided if leather is going to be stored for any length of time. NEVER use household cleaners or silicone products on leather.

Source: Nth Auck Mounted Rifles Association

Bronze disease on pennies is contagious and will spread (one argument not to chuck them all into the same box)

As a lab rat, I make up Sodium Sesquicarbonate for treatment (museum method) but for those who lack access to such wonderful compounds, here's a link to a kitchen chemistry version (basically the same stuff).
Bronze Disease Treatment

Due to corrosive nature of the disease, you will end up with some pitting on the coin - note this was already there as a result of the green death, but would only get worse with time unless treated.

Reminds me, Must go through and recheck my bronzes.

Freezing is another one, soak coin (or whatever) for a few hours, chuck it in the freezer overnight, light scrub with your wifes toothbrush, then resoak and refreeze. Repeat several times or until wife complains about using her toothbrush.

I did have something in my display cabinet that left an evil black ooze, can't remember what it was though but was likely a junk chain or similar from the beach.

Good idea for a thread, having also rooted my first big silver (early 1900's Oz florin) trying to "clean" it!

Not with my one - all the detail was preserved in the sulphide layer, and disappeared with it.
It's just a 'plain' silver disc. Shiny, but bald :)

I generally leave my silvers dark now (or at least minimal degunking)

Great thread, my tips are as follows:
I see a lot of detectorists on YouTube say to soak coins in vinegar. DO NOT TRY THIS. The coin will go green, and then the coin will smell.
Also, I tried soaking rusty artefacts in coca cola, and it works, but only to a certain extent.
My recommendation for rusty items is electrolysis. Here is a video on how to set this up : https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=W9C8fW2Mz0g
And for nickel coins such as decimals and Australian current coins, my best solution is putting them inside a plastic bottle (hardened) and shaking it. For some reason this works. But that's all I know about. I have only been detecting for about two years, and luck is only with me on relics. So I am no expert on cleaning coins.
Anyways, I feel this thread will help many detectorists on this site and it was a brilliant idea. :) GL and HH

All about electrolysis is explained in the video.
And coca cola also uses sugars, which is why coca cola zero has little or no effect. I am no science expert, but I think coca cola isn't always reliable. It tried it with my fire arm and it merely removed the outer layer. (P.S, the gun was NOT loaded and it was a pellet pistol.)

Yeah, the thing being is that it's a very well known technique.
If you guys are really fascinated, check out this channel: https://m.youtube.com/ch...UCv61IAZLDELwk2Kk5hfX0mg
He is a very famous detectorists and often makes videos on cleaning relics. I'm sure you all would have heard of him.
He has a playlist about cleaning, etc.